Vintage Levi’s 505: The 501 Alternative Most People Skip
Everyone hunts the 501. The 505 sits right next to it on the rack at lower prices, with a zipper fly and more room through the thigh. For a lot of bodies, the 505 is the better jean.
Vintage Levi’s 505 is the underrated sibling of the 501 — same straight-leg Americana silhouette, but with a zipper fly instead of buttons, slightly lower rise, and a genuinely roomier thigh that tapers less aggressively. I’ve owned three vintage 505s in the last five years and they’ve quietly become as important in my rotation as my 501s. This piece covers what makes the 505 different, which decades are worth hunting, and who should pick a 505 over a 501. Related: Vintage Levi’s 505 Relaxed Fit Distressed Jeans and Vintage Levi’s 501. The pillar Brand Guides covers vintage denim overall.
The 505 versus 501, specifically
Both cuts are straight leg. Both have a mid-to-high rise. Both use the same denim weights across decades. The differences:
Fly: 505 has a zipper; 501 has a button fly.
Rise: 505 is about a half inch lower at the front rise.
Thigh: 505 is roomier through the thigh by roughly half an inch at each leg (so ~1″ total circumference).
Taper: 505 tapers less aggressively from thigh to ankle. The leg opening is still 16″ at most production points, but the shape between thigh and ankle is slightly straighter.
These aren’t huge differences, but they add up to a meaningfully different fit experience. The 505 feels looser, drops a bit lower on the waist, and opens more easily (zipper vs buttons).
When to choose 505 over 501
You have larger thighs. The 505’s roomier thigh is forgiving for athletic or heavier thigh measurements.
You find 501s too restrictive in the seat when sitting. The 505 has slightly more room through the seat.
You prefer zipper fly to button fly (faster, less fidgety).
You want a slightly lower-rise feel without going to a modern low-rise cut.
You want to pay less for equivalent quality. 505s consistently run 10–20% cheaper than 501 comps on resale.
505 across decades
1967: the 505 was introduced as a zipper-fly alternative to the 501. Early production has big E red tabs.
1967–1971: big E era. Collector territory now, $200+ typically.
1970s: little e. Shrink-to-fit era, heavy denim. Typical vintage 505 aesthetic. $100–$250 depending on condition.
1980s: transition to pre-shrunk, cut stabilized. Sweet spot for wearability and price. $55–$120.
1990s: pre-shrunk, made-in-USA through mid-to-late 90s. Most predictable sizing. $40–$80.
Post-2000: outsourced production, slimmer cut updates. Not considered vintage.
Sizing on a real body
For reference, my 5’10” 175 lb frame with 32″ natural waist and 23″ thigh:
1988 505, tagged 32×32, measures 32×31.5. Fits true at waist, slightly more room at thigh than my 501 equivalent, and the zipper fly is noticeably more convenient.
1994 505, tagged 32×32, measures 32×32. Most consistent sizing, most reliable fit.
1977 505 STF-era, tagged 34×34, measures 31.5×31 (shrunk by previous owner). Still fits but the specific shrinking history created unpredictable final measurements.
For first-time vintage 505 buyers, 1990s pairs are the easiest to size.
The zipper fly as a feature
Button flies on 501s are a personal choice. Some buyers love them (no fidgety metal, classic Americana construction). Others find them annoying (slower to open and close, potential for wardrobe malfunctions).
If button flies have ever frustrated you, the 505 is the direct upgrade. Same cut, same brand, same quality — just with a zipper. The zipper construction on vintage 505s is typically brass YKK or similar, which lasts decades. Replacement zippers are available at any denim tailor if needed.
One practical note: vintage zipper flies can occasionally stick if the denim around them hasn’t been worn in. A small amount of graphite pencil rubbed on the zipper teeth can loosen a sticky vintage zipper.
Styling the 505
The 505 pairs the same as a 501 in most outfits. Tee and boots; sweater and sneakers; button-up and loafers. The slightly relaxed fit reads marginally more casual than the 501 but not by much.
Where the 505 differs stylistically: the looser thigh and less aggressive taper pair particularly well with chunky shoes — boots, chunky sneakers, Blundstones. A 501’s tighter taper can look fussy over a heavy shoe; the 505’s straighter leg handles chunky footwear better.
Vintage Levis 505 Mens on Poshmark for current listings.
Where 505s shine for women
Women buying men’s vintage Levi’s for the boyfriend fit often find the 505 fits better than the 501 because the roomier thigh accommodates women’s typical hip-to-waist ratio more generously. A men’s 505 in a 30 or 32 waist produces a relaxed boyfriend fit that flatters most female frames with a belt.
For the equivalent closer fit, women’s-cut 505s exist in 80s and 90s production but are less plentiful than men’s. See Vintage Levi Jeans Women for broader women’s vintage Levi’s notes.
Care
Same as any vintage Levi’s: cold water, inside out, hang dry. The 505 denim weights across decades match the 501 equivalents, so the wear patterns are similar.
Zipper-fly jeans occasionally need zipper lubrication after years of storage. A silicone-based lubricant or graphite pencil works; avoid oil-based products that can stain the surrounding denim.
The honest negative
The 505 has less collector interest than the 501, which is a positive for buyers (lower prices) and a negative for eventual resellers (you’ll recover less if you sell). If you’re buying vintage denim with resale in mind, 501s hold value better.
The 505 also has less brand mystique. Mentioning you bought “vintage 501s” carries cultural weight that “vintage 505s” doesn’t, which matters to some buyers and not others.
The verdict
Vintage Levi’s 505 is a better buy than 501 for many bodies and many use cases. Buy a 1990s pair for the easiest sizing at $40–$80, or an 1980s pair for slightly more character at $55–$120. Skip 1970s STF-era pairs unless you want the period aesthetic and you’re willing to spend. The zipper fly is a genuine upgrade for practical daily wear. See Vintage Levi’s 505 Relaxed Fit Distressed Jeans for the specific distressed variant. Vintage Levis 505 Jeans on Amazon has mixed listings including reissues.
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FAQ
What’s the difference between Levi’s 505 and 501?
505 has a zipper fly instead of button fly, slightly lower rise, and slightly roomier thigh. Otherwise same straight-leg cut.
Are vintage 505s cheaper than 501s?
Yes, typically 10–20% cheaper for comparable condition and decade. Collector interest is lower for the 505.
When was the Levi’s 505 introduced?
1967, as a zipper-fly alternative to the 501. Both cuts have run in parallel since.
Which vintage 505 decade is easiest to size?
1990s pre-shrunk pairs. The tag size matches the actual size within a half inch, similar to 1990s 501.
