The 505 is the most underrated pair of vintage Levi’s on the resale market. Not quite as slim as the 501, not as baggy as the 550, with a zip fly instead of the iconic button fly — it’s the Levi’s pair nobody brags about owning, which is exactly why it’s priced fairly.
I own a 1996 pair of 505s in a distressed medium wash and I’ve worn them for a year. Distressed vintage 505s specifically are a sub-category worth understanding — the wash isn’t always factory, and the age of the distressing changes the value equation. Here’s the honest review. Our Vintage Levi’s piece covers the broader context, and the Brand Guides hub has the pillar index.
What the 505 actually is
The Levi’s 505 is a regular/straight fit zip-fly jean, introduced in 1967. Key features:
Zip fly. The main difference from the 501. Some wearers prefer zip for convenience; others feel button fly is more authentic.
Regular fit. Slimmer through the seat and thigh than the 550, but not as slim as the 501. A middle-ground silhouette.
Straight leg. Same as 501. No taper, no flare.
Mid rise. Similar to 501s.
Standard 5-pocket construction. Arcuate back pockets, coin pocket, red tab.
The “relaxed fit” description you’ll see on some listings is a bit loose — 505s are more “regular” than “relaxed” in Levi’s own terminology. True relaxed fit at Levi’s is the 550 or 560. If a listing describes a 505 as “relaxed,” it typically means roomy through the thigh, which 505s can feel like if you’re used to slim jeans.
Why 505s are underpriced relative to quality
505s cost 20–40% less than equivalent 501s on resale for two reasons:
1. The zip fly. Button fly is seen as more authentic vintage. Zip feels more modern to some buyers, which depresses demand.
2. Lower fashion cachet. The 501 is the icon. The 505 is the supporting player. Fashion-focused buyers default to 501.
Both reasons are about demand, not quality. The fabric, construction, and era-specific details on vintage 505s are nearly identical to 501s of the same production run. You’re paying less for a near-equivalent pair.
For buyers who care about actually wearing the jeans rather than signaling, this is the arbitrage. 90s Cone Mills 505s for $45 deliver the same wearing experience as 90s Cone Mills 501s for $70.
The “distressed” question
“Distressed” on vintage 505s can mean one of several things:
1. Naturally worn-in. The pair has had a previous owner who wore them hard — honest fade at the thighs, knees, and hip creases. Maybe a small rip at the back pocket or a thinning crotch. This is the ideal.
2. Factory pre-distressed. Levi’s and many resellers produce factory-distressed pairs that come with sanded knees, ripped holes, and bleach fade built in. This was more common in 90s and 2000s production. Some factory distressed pairs are vintage; they were made distressed to look vintage even when new.
3. Seller-distressed. The seller has taken a plain pair and sanded, bleached, or ripped them to look distressed for resale. This is increasingly common on Depop and Poshmark.
4. Hybrid. Naturally worn pair that a seller has “enhanced” with additional distressing.
Which category you’re buying changes the value. Naturally worn distressing on a USA 90s pair = premium. Seller-distressed = you’re paying for scissor and sandpaper work.
How to tell the difference:
Wear pattern: Natural wear concentrates on high-friction areas (thighs, knees, seat). If the distressing is on low-friction areas (calves, hip sides), it’s likely artificial.
Rip edges: Naturally-ripped denim has frayed, uneven edges with varying fiber lengths. Cut rips have straighter, cleaner edges.
Bleach patterns: Natural sun bleach is gradual and inconsistent. Chemical bleach spots are often symmetrical or suspiciously patterned.
Interior consistency: A genuinely worn pair shows wear inside (pocket bag discoloration, inner waistband wear). A surface-distressed pair can look new inside.
How my 1996 505s fit
I’m 5’9″, 155 lbs, 31 waist. Wearing W32 L32 shrunk.
Waist: True to size after shrinking. Sits at the same height as my 501s.
Seat: Slightly roomier than 501s — not a ton, but noticeable.
Thigh: Relaxed-straight. About 13″ at widest flat, vs ~12.5″ on my 501s.
Knee to ankle: Straight. Leg opening about 8.5″ — same as 501.
Rise: About 11 inches. Mid rise.
The 505 gives me about half an inch more room through the thigh than the 501, which I like on days I want more movement. The silhouette is nearly identical from three feet away.
Dating 505s specifically
Same tag-reading process as any vintage Levi’s:
Red tab: Big-E or small-e. 505 launched in 1967, so 1967–1971 pairs have Big-E. Rare.
Care tag: Made in USA, format by decade.
Waistband patch: Should say “505” on the lot number.
Selvedge: 505s had redline selvedge in some early production but the line moved off redline production earlier than 501s. A redline 505 is typically pre-1983-ish. Not guaranteed.
Zip fly details: The zipper brand and construction can help narrow dating. Old YKK zippers look different from newer ones.
Vintage 505 eras
1967–1971 Big-E: Rare. Collector territory. $200–$400.
1971–1983 small-e with redline: Heritage sweet spot for 505. $100–$200.
1983–1996 post-redline Cone Mills: Wearable sweet spot. $45–$85.
1996–2003 late USA era: Still quality. $35–$65.
Post-2003: Not traditionally vintage. $25–$45.
My 1996 pair is in the $45–$85 range and I paid $52 on eBay.
Styling distressed 505s
Distressed vintage 505s are less formal than clean 501s. They skew casual and a little lived-in. My rotations:
With a plain white tee and sneakers. Off-duty casual. Works across seasons.
Under a button-down with boots. Dressed-up casual. The distressing keeps it from looking too stiff.
With band tees and chore jackets. Workwear-adjacent aesthetic.
With sweaters and blazers (the distressing reads as “effortless”). Quiet luxury skews to clean 501s; distressed 505s read slightly more relaxed.
Don’t wear distressed 505s with ripped-knee tights or other over-distressed items — the overall outfit becomes too deliberate. Distressing works best against clean tops.
What to check before buying
Distressing authenticity. Per above — natural wear vs. seller additions. Ask the seller directly.
Crotch integrity. Same #1 vintage Levi’s failure. Check the crotch in photos.
Zipper function. The 505’s distinguishing feature. A broken zipper is a repair job ($25–$40 at an alterations shop). Not a dealbreaker but factor it in.
Waistband condition. Zip-fly waistbands sometimes develop specific wear at the button closure and the top of the fly. Check this area.
Leg opening fray. Distressed pairs often have frayed hems. Fine if intentional, annoying if they’re going to keep fraying unpredictably.
Pricing distressed 505s
My benchmarks:
– Naturally-worn 90s distressed 505: $45–$80
– Factory-distressed 90s 505: $40–$65 (factory distressing is less valuable than natural wear)
– Seller-distressed 90s 505: $30–$50 (shouldn’t command much premium over a plain pair)
– 80s distressed 505: $75–$140
– 70s Big-E distressed: $200+
Always factor in: if the distressing looks fake or seller-applied, you’re buying a plain pair at a distressed pair’s price. Know the difference.
Where to buy
Vintage Levis 505 on Poshmark and eBay are the primary markets. Poshmark has more curated distressed pairs; eBay has better prices on plain pairs you can wear into the distressed look yourself.
Thrift stores have vintage 505s but you’ll dig. The 501 trumps the 505 in shop curation, so 505s are more likely to sit longer in thrift bins.
Vintage Levis 505 on Amazon for broader browsing.
The “buy plain and wear them in” strategy
My favorite approach: buy a clean, dark vintage 505 for $40–$55 and wear it for six months. The distressing you create through actual use is more character-rich than anything a seller can add with sandpaper. You save money and end up with a better-looking pair.
This requires patience. Six months of regular wear is the minimum to see meaningful fade. A year to see real character. But the result is your distressing, which reads authentic because it is.
The honest negative
505s aren’t the iconic pair. If you want the Levi’s status piece, buy a 501. If you’re buying vintage to collect or to resell, the 501 has better liquidity and resale value. 505s are wearing pairs, not investment pairs.
Also: the zip fly is mildly less durable than button fly in my experience. The zipper is another mechanical part that can fail. I’ve had two zippers break on 505s over the years (not on vintage — on newer pairs, but the principle holds).
The verdict
Vintage Levi’s 505 relaxed fit distressed jeans are the underrated workhorse in the vintage Levi’s lineup. Same era-specific quality as 501s at 20–40% less, with a slightly roomier thigh that some bodies actually prefer. The distressed subset is legitimately interesting but you need to verify natural wear vs. seller-applied distressing before paying premium. Target 90s USA-made Cone Mills pairs for the sweet spot — $45–$75 for a wearable pair with honest character. My 1996 pair cost $52 and I wear them as often as any 501 in my closet. The zip fly isn’t a dealbreaker; it’s a feature. Don’t overpay because someone added sandpaper distressing to a plain pair. For 501 comparison, Vintage Levi’s 501 is the read, and Vintage Levi 501 Jeans covers the 501 deep-dive. For buying discipline, Best Price for Vintage Levi’s Jeans covers the pricing side.
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FAQ
Are Levi’s 505 relaxed fit?
Officially, 505s are “regular fit” in Levi’s terminology. They’re roomier than 501s through the thigh but not as loose as true relaxed fits like the 550. Many sellers describe them as relaxed.
How do I know if my distressed 505s are authentic?
Check wear patterns (natural wear concentrates on high-friction areas), rip edges (natural rips are uneven, cut rips are clean), and interior wear (naturally-worn pairs show wear inside too).
Are vintage 505s worth it?
Yes. They’re priced lower than 501s for the same era of production and deliver nearly identical wearing experience. The best value in vintage Levi’s for most buyers.
What size vintage 505 should I buy?
Your true waist for a washed pair. One size up for unwashed (which is rare in 505s). Verify with flat measurements.
Can I distress plain 505s myself?
Yes, but honestly, wearing them for six months creates better distressing than any manual technique. Natural wear patterns read authentic because they are. Manual distressing (sanding, pumice stone, light bleaching) works if you want it faster, but expect some trial and error.
